Prickly pear seed oil: Morocco's rarest face oil and how to use it

Why it is so rare

The prickly pear (Opuntia ficus-indica) grows as a hedge around villages in southern Morocco. The fruit is eaten fresh, but the oil comes from the seeds inside it, and each fruit holds very few. A large amount of fruit is needed to press a small bottle, which is why genuine oil is among the most expensive cosmetic oils.

In many regions, women's cooperatives harvest the fruit, separate the seeds and press the oil by hand or in small mills.

How it is used in Morocco

Because it is so precious, it is used in tiny amounts: a few drops on the face and neck in the evening, and sometimes on the delicate skin around the eyes. It is a finishing step after cleansing and a light toner such as rose water, not a replacement for a moisturiser in the daytime.

How to use it, step by step

1. Cleanse your face and pat it damp.

2. Put 2–3 drops in your palm, rub your hands together to warm the oil.

3. Press it gently onto your face and neck. Do not rub.

4. Use at night, 3–4 times a week to start. If your skin feels heavy in the humid heat, use it only at night or mix one drop into your moisturiser.

How to spot a fake

Genuine prickly pear seed oil is sold in very small bottles and is expensive. A large bottle at a very low price is almost certainly diluted with a cheaper oil. Look on the label for Opuntia ficus-indica seed oil as the only ingredient, a dark glass bottle, and a seller who can tell you the origin and the pressing method.

Make it work for your skin

Start with a drop or two at night and see how your skin feels in the morning.

In humid weather, one drop in your moisturiser keeps it light.